Sunday, December 20, 2009

Life...in a Non-Metro Capital

The beauty of travelling on work is that you start to value home. The value of the warmth of your family and the luxury and laziness of being at home.


I have been travelling on work since the start of my professional career way back donkey years. Chugging into busy and noisy railway stations during my early days and presently landing at swanky and noisy airports. So, just what’s different now!


The past few months of travel have tickled some nerves in the memory lane – hence the thought of writing my travelogue. I am not sure how a travelogue is written, though, it may not be very distant from the truth about ‘write what you feel and felt’. I do hope that I would be able to close my eyes and relive those moments - hoping that the colours, hues, smell, touch, taste and sounds are entrenched in my memory.


This is a travelogue seen through my eyes and may not in any way match your knowledge of the place, town or city. This is also not an effort to tutor historical facts – known and unknown. Nor it is an attempt to highlight our ignorance of facts and figures.


I have started to write this, as I am waiting in departure lounge of Bhopal airport, enroute to Delhi.


I am not sure how I should describe this airport. The setting is serene as you turn into the airport road. Small roads, quite ambience – there is sense of lethargy and laziness in all the movements. The cars are few and far between. So are the passengers in the supposedly queue to the check-in counter. The baggage boys leaning casually on the trolleys. The building is quaint, small and all glass from the outside. The inside is neat, not swanky.


One thing that hits you here is too few of everything. Too few passengers, too few flights, too few cabs, too few baggage trolleys, too few check-in counters, too few security check walkways, too few food zones, too few things to do.


Then I think that we have had too much of the modernisation of airports. Indian airports were always like this – small, quaint, sluggish and very heritage-ish.


Bhopal – the city of lakes, I did not know about this till someone told me about it. Believe it when you see it. Three, four, five, six lakes and still counting. They say there’s lot more. I believe, now!


The capital city of Madhya Pradesh, once the largest state in India, is what a non-metro should be. Lots of greens, water everywhere, chaotic traffic, arms-length roads – two-way traffic, no dividers add to the excitement. It’s touch and go.


Everyone whom I have met here are soft spoken, lethargic, enjoys their noon siesta and loves food. The non-veg platter is supposedly scrumptious. I did not venture deeper into this adventure of exploration – on business, no time.


Everyone also told me, often many times during the day, that the Nawab of Pataudi is now the ruler of Bhopal. An inheritance that came by his way due to providence – the Jamai of Bhopal. He owns this, that and all’s that is there to be owned. He lives here, there and at all the palaces that are there. He visits now and then and whenever he feels like. Bhopal is proud of having the Nawab of Pataudi – Mansoor Ali Khan Pataudi. Sharmila, Saif and Soha add to the glamour.


But that’s not what I started to write this travelogue for.


I did take some time out to walk by the Bada Talaab and inhale the fresh air. Clear my mind, I thought, and refresh my fatigued body, I wanted. This was post lunch at 3 pm at one of the big hotel attractions in Bhopal (name withheld for want of publicity fee).


Taking in the expansive view of the largest lake in Bhopal, I tried locating the other end. My eye-sight failed me. I think I am growing old, or is it the largeness of the abyss.


Families, couples – newly married, to-be married, may marry, studs, petite and buxom chicks, school kids, college groups, singles, ogglers, chana wala, bhel puri walas, balloon walas, motorboat walas and few people like me – a no one in this boisterous crowd, having their leisurely walk and enjoying the view – to each his or her own.


Then my eyes caught a sight. Looking up a small hillock, I saw the jutted out structure of the palace that is now a hotel – the one I had lunch at. The architectural wonder (don’t know the style or era) peeking through the foliage, with the backdrop of the grey and blue sky, looked majestic and magnificent.


Right on the view path, stood another white structure – more angles and modern, concrete and glass, on the left of the palace. This is the laboratory and office of Union Carbide – now closed, locked and barred.


Union Carbide – the name that evokes unexplainable silence and rigor-mortis of the eyes of the Bhopalis. The name that suddenly flashes the most gruesome pix of a baby girl taken during the ill-fated Bhopal Gas tragedy, splashed across media which is entrenched in the minds’ eye.


Bhopal today still lives with this burdensome heritage.


At this moment, as I stood there gaping, a thought rushed through my mind.


It is a choice – History or Heritage!


SMALL is BEAUTIFUL, BIG is BOUNTIFUL!

Over the past few days, or has it been for months now, I have been hearing – SMALL is BEAUTIFUL. That’s what the world is saying, or is it my hearing.


Surprisingly, I have also been observing – BIG is BOUNTIFUL. That’s what the world is showing, or is it my hallucination.


I am not sure. But, for sure, this is clearly a situation of what I choose to see, observe, hear and comprehend at that instance of time.


That’s for later, now.


While I am sitting down to just pitter-patter on the keys of the laptop, I go back to my childhood days. The days which I miss now. The days, which, I am sure if given back to me to relive again, I would do things differently. But, then, would I? I am not sure. But all of this later.


During those days, my granny told me stories, while lulling me to sleep, about kings, queens, prince and princess living in castles, forts, kingdoms of yore far and wide, huge army, lots of ministers, huge thrones, large palaces, big beds, horses, elephants, camels, cannons and lots and lots of good things. The epic of Ramayan – the Ram, the Laxman, the Hanuman, the vanar sena, the vatika, the ocean, the great Hanuman leap, the Ravana, the ten heads, the Kumbakarana and the holy war. The epic of Mahabharat – the Pandavas, the Kauravs, 100 brothers, Bhisma Pitamaha, the Krishna, the chariots, another holy war, the arrows, the swords, the triumph of good over evil, the joy and the celebration.


Sitting in the galley of the school library, the sweet musty smell of the yellowing and crackling pages of the millions and zillions of books, something that has still not left my nostrils, and am very sure, will never leave, and leafing through the pages of National Geographic magazines, I would see, love and adore the cars – the Chevy’s, the Jeep, the Ferrari’s, the Rolls Royce, the Jaguar and many more my aging memory fails me today.


The constant drone of my school teachers, the cacophony of my classmates, juniors and seniors, the anesthetic smell of the botany lab, the burst of Sodium on water, what was the chemical locha, I forget, still ring in my ear. I was one of the huge magnitude of intellectual beings in the world trying to fathom between a Jupiter and Shakespeare, an Einstein and a pteridophyta, the Periodic Table and the Integration-Derivative formulas, the cos α + cos β = 2 cos ½(α + β) cos ½ (α - β) and the Tughlaq dynasty, the theorems and the thesaurus, the present participle and the speed of light, the Rani of Jhansi and Rabindranath Tagore.


But, today, I am able to faintly recollect my Geography teacher teaching us that, countries prospered when agriculture prospered, yields were more when large farmlands were tilled. My Physics teacher taught us about Mass. The History teacher took us thorough the by-lanes of the Mughal empires’ conquest’s in expanding and engulfing what is today, India. Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel’s efforts in unifying India, they don’t revere him as the Iron Man of India for nothing. The English teacher teaching us the values of magnanimity of giving – Santa Claus always caught my imagination over Jesus and Gandhi.


The power of acquisition epitomised by Hitler, Ghenghis Khan, Alexander, Julius Caeser (the Gauls were an aberration to this), Akbar and nearer home, the East India Company, always directed towards expanse and hugeness which was bountiful.


Travelling South of India, you realised the power of hugeness. A 60 ft. Amma, a 90 ft. NTR, a 75 ft. Rajnikant, towering over the mass, evoked hugeness, awe and in some way, I don’t know how and I can’t explain it, trust. The 70mm appeal of Amitabh to a 21 inch Sa Re Ga Ma Pa, still draws crowds to theatres.


BIG, in fact, is BOUNTIFUL! Period.


My mom always taught me to take one step at a time, do not hop, skip and jump. One tiny step and a giant leap for mankind, they said when the moon surface was transgressed.


Protons were discovered, amoeba initiated the search for smallest being on Earth, time split into nano-seconds, Maruti drove into Indian hearts, slim and trim becomes the fashionista mantra, Diet Coke, calorie count debate, receding waistline of Page 3 beauties, bell-bottoms give way to tight fits, micro-economy becomes the buzzword, petite is the sex-word, microchips, pay per second - the new telecom buzzword, web-chat, SMS lingo, the nuclear family, the DINKs.


The world is shrinking, prophesy comes true.


SMALL is BEAUTIFUL!


I wonder...


The systematic disintegration of the life, the world, the universe and all that we always held close to our heart, loved, cared and nurtured makes me wonder where are we heading.


Size Zero... Or... Plus S!


Telengana, Gorkhaland, Bundelkhand... Or... Andhra, Bengal, Madhya Pradesh!


The debate continues...


The choice is not yours or mine. No more!


The choice is also not ours. It never was!


The choice is made...by them!